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On the brink: Journey to Mumbai

Personal encounters with illness and death inside clinics in Mumbai, India make dismal statistics a terrifying reality

by Gabriel Verzino
Heart of the Matter

Features | 8/26/08
Posted online at 7:09 PM EST on 8/25/08 / Last updated at 1:26 AM EST on 8/25/08

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In India, death from untreated diseases such as leprosy, TB, AIDS and malaria is commonplace.  Above, a boy looks out onto the streets of a rural village about five miles from a clinic. Photo courtesy of Gabriel Verzino
In India, death from untreated diseases such as leprosy, TB, AIDS and malaria is commonplace. Above, a boy looks out onto the streets of a rural village about five miles from a clinic. Photo courtesy of Gabriel Verzino

Mumbai, India is not exactly a peaceful vacation destination. The metropolitan area there is about half the size of New York City but is home to nearly twice as many people. I knew going there would be anything but relaxing, but mayhem seemed intriguing nonetheless.

Just past midnight May 29, my flight finally arrived at Mumbai International Airport. A disorienting crowd of shouting people greeted me suddenly as I stepped off the plane. For a moment, the chaos appeared to be a riot, but my exhausted and jet-lagged mind couldn't tell.

The purpose of my trip was to learn about health care delivery in this developing country. Most of the other students I was to meet in just an hour were American medical students. For the next five weeks, we would be rotating throughout different hospitals and clinics to observe family physicians and surgeons treat patients with infectious diseases.

Outside the airport, another mob rallied like excited adolescents behind a traffic divider at a concert. Actually, they were taxi drivers pushing and fighting for any passengers they could attract. The night air was oppressively humid. At nearly 1 a.m., the temperature was easily above 100 degrees.

I got a glimpse of one hand sticking out of the crowd holding high a paper sign with my misspelled last name scribbled on it. "Verizno," it said. Close enough, I figured. That's got to be me.

I leaned cautiously into the crowd to grasp his arm. He squeezed back, and poking through two other heads to greet me, my site coordinator Getu met me with a beaming smile.

"It's a miracle I found you!" I shouted, trying to be humorous. He probably didn't understand exactly, but shot back a short laugh and replied, "This is India, my friend! Come to the side!"

As we walked through the bulky iron gates protecting the airport, all I could do was repeat in my mind what I had previously learned about this part of the world: The rate of illiteracy is high, and prostitution rates even higher. Patients with infectious diseases common in Mumbai, such as leprosy, TB, AIDS and malaria, are rarely even examined, and those who are seen are given minimal medical attention, since supplies are very limited. Nearly 60 percent of the people in this city live out of destitution in chronically impoverished areas. But statistics are just statistics, I only later realized, unless you can put a face to them.
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Cyber Gandhi

posted 8/27/08 @ 3:26 PM EST

Thank you for visiting India and posting a blog on real India.

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